Da Nang delights: Wrap’s the way we like it
While a raft of development has seen many a new restaurant decorate downtown Da Nang, an old favourite still leads the way serving up sumptuous local delicacies for the whole family. Nguyen My Ha reports.
For any visitors to Da Nang seeking an authentic slice of the local food scene, look no further than Le Duan Street’s Tran restaurant. Handily located downtown in a private lane, the restaurant sits behind a quaint fish pond with an elegant stone bridge waiting to transport you to your table.
The restaurant embraces an all-in-one design, covered by a solitary roof held up by supporting pillars, giving diners the feeling that they’re enjoying a feast in a mandarin’s courtyard. With its growing reputation as the go-to local dish, one is likely to have heard about Quang noodles long before they arrive in Da Nang.
Like pho in Ha Noi and bun bo in Hue, my Quang is the staple meal of not only Da Nang but the whole Quang Nam Province. We went for a steaming bowl of chicken noodles (VND29,000) bathed in a rich red sauce, although other options include pork, shrimp or a mixture of two meats.
But despite the noodle hype, the dish Quan Tran is most famous for is its legendary banh trang thit heo (VND79,000). The wrap-it-yourself rolls are both fun and delicious. Starting with rice paper as your wrapping, you add stuffing boasting a wide variety of fresh aromatic herbs and vegetables such as lettuce, mint, bean sprouts, thinly sliced shreds of cucumber, green banana, julienned ginger and fresh garlic. Next up is meat and what makes the boiled pork in Da Nang special is the way it is cut into fine shreds of lean meat sandwiched between slices of lard and skin at either ends.
On a roll: Quan Tran offers its legendary banh trang thit heo with wrap-it-yourself rolls that are both fun and delicious. — VNS Photos My Ha
Last but not least is the versatile fish sauce for dipping. This is traditional fish sauce in a much more primitive form than you might be used to. Don’t expect a crystal clear, caramel-coloured syrup as you’d find in shops – here we have the real deal. The thick, dark dip still hides traces of anchovy bones and is given it’s inimitable flavour thanks to a medley of diced pineapple, sugar, lime juice, finely chopped garlic and pepper. The garlic is key to making the sauce safe to eat. Eating lots of sharp, fresh vegetables can cause stomach ache unless you add the fresh garlic and julienned ginger to balance out the sauce.
The delicate and delectable pork was so thinly-slice that we ordered two servings of the meaty treat to ensure we got our fill. The tasty dish is also ideal for someone on a diet as it provides lots of greens and very little fat. This is a dish made for sharing and needs to be enjoyed over a leisurely lunch or evening – it’s not something you can eat alone or in a rush.
Other local delicacies include banh trang dap, featuring a roasted pancake under a steamed pancake (VND16,000). You break it by a slight punch and take small bites which you can dip in the flavoursome fish sauce again.
Meanwhile, bun mam (VND17,000) comprises chopped roast pork, greens, peanuts and fried onions all mixed together with the marinated fish sauce. Other types of rolls can also be made with beef for VND89,000.
A hefty dinner for four will set you back around VND300,000, a reasonable price we were very happy to pay, not just for the food, but also the atmosphere and enchanting experience.
If you are travelling with small children, finding a spacious restaurant for the little ones to play around in can sometimes prove an impossible task. Thankfully, here they have beef and pork rice congee for children and bigger kids can run around in excitement while their parents share a well-deserved moment in peace.
Quan Tran is celebrating its 10th anniversary at end of July and restaurant banners say it will give away 150 bicycles to poor and bright students across the central region as part of the milestone.
The restaurant also offers a separate summer pavillion that can house a private group of up to 10 people for special occasions.
Every time we go to Da Nang for a vacation, we immediately head to Quan Tran for a banh trang thit heo fix. It has become more than a place to have dinner, it is now an unforgettabe family experience. — VNS
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Tran, Local Foods
4 Le Duan St., Da Nang City
Tel.: 0511-3752779
Hours: 9am-10pm
Price: VND100,000-300,000
Comment: Great local food in open-air setting, home catering service available